Day 22 - Dec. 17
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Jen here. Today was a busy day, but only from a social point of view.  From a paperwork standpoint there is nothing to do until Friday - so we are basically on vacation. Today Andre took us sight-seeing in Almaty. We visited the war memorial ("28 Heroes Park"), the biggest Russian Orthodox cathedral in Almaty, and the history museum. Outside the cathedral was an old woman selling birdfeed for the pigeons (yes, I was singing "feed the birds, tuppence a bag ..."). We bought some and as we threw it out we were suddenly engulfed by the entire flock - it sounded like a helicopter was landing next to us, and the wind produced by hundreds of wings was overwhelming. Benjamin Aidos was not sure he liked it - but mama had to buy more feed and do it again. The cathedral was beautiful, and inside we lit candles for the dead (on the left) and the living (on the right). 

The museum had a floor devoted to the Kazakh nomads complete with a full-sized Yurt (the Kazak nomad's version of a pop-up tent) and lots of armor, weapons, and colorful native dress.  The whole exhibit took us only about 30 minutes including the times we had to extract Benjamin from the roped areas - a new speed record for a Szydlik museum visit. (It helps that Steve could not read a single word of text. )  

The Javines came to dinner at our place - Steve made beef-chicken stroganoff (I saw the picture of the mushrooms on the soup can - but missed the chicken - used it anyway).   

We also did one more stop by the Tsum for gifts - you know that you have spent too much money when three different shop attendants welcome your child by name. 

Steve here.  Jen left out the most exciting news of the day.  Jon Javines and I, with our combined brain power, managed to finally got an Internet connection from our apartments today.  Hooray!  This actually does make a difference.  When we were in Uralsk, the Internet cafe was right across the street, while in Almaty, they are several miles away.  And of course, we now have a little guy running around, which makes an hour-long jaunt to the cafe next to impossible.  We're optimistic that with the home connection, we can update our guestbook and reply to emails in a more timely fashion.  :-)

 

The Russian Orthodox church in 28 Heroes Park.
The first tree on the right was planted by Boris Yeltsin.

     

Ben, Steve, and our current driver Andre. 

 

Jen doing her Hitchcock impression.
Benjamin Aidos has an appropriate reaction

     

One of the war memorials in 28 Heroes Park.
Very Soviet.

 

Two cool guys.

     

The boys are successful!  An Internet hookup on Day 22.

 

A few of the small cultural differences we have noted between the US and Kazakhstan:

  1. Most of their milk is not refrigerated and has a shelf life of well over a year.  (Flavor wise, consider the difference between fresh and canned vegetables)
  2. Mint green and powder blue are the most popular decorative colors for buildings.
  3. Even in small markets, over half of the available shelf space is devoted to alcohol and candy.
  4. They use sand on the roads and no salt.
  5. Light switches are found at waist level outside of rooms, so that you can turn the light on before entering. (And, as our new son has discovered, you can turn off the light when someone is using the bathroom - this is a very funny joke.)
  6. Drinks are not served with ice - and many we expect to be cold are served room temperature.
  7. And when you shop, don't forget to bring your cash, because Kazakhstan doesn't take American Express (or Visa or MasterCard or Discover or ...)  Steve found out that his AT&T "Universal" Card isn't.
  8. Although this is a cash culture - no one ever seems to have change - shop attendants are always searching to find coins and bills alike, or asking us if we have "milch" (change).  We're talking about change for 200 Tenge (a couple of bucks), not a 5000 Tenge bill.
  9. In any public place (market, department-like store, museum, church...) although there are many double doors in the front, only one side of one particular door is unlocked. Everyone is crowding to get in and out through that one door - yet no one seems to think "Hey, let's go all out and unlock another door or two!"
  10. Parking I:  Since Kazakhstan does not have the level of car culture that the US does, we can often park right where we want to be.  For example, when we visited the historical museum (picture a building like the Field Museum in Chicago), our driver parked the car at the base of the main stairs!  Even at popular malls, the parking lots, though extremely small, are sufficient.
  11. Parking II:  Near large markets where parking is only available on the street, there are parking attendants in orange vests who will stand next to empty spots and help you find a spot.  They collect money for parking when you leave - and clearly they must be paid on commission, since they will wedge your car in at any angle, including perpendicular to the street and half on the sidewalk. Jen calls them "parking facilitators."

 

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