The De Bortoli dynasty owes much of its success to its Italian heritage, but for how much longer can it stay true to its down-to-earth roots? Worth over $100 million, the De Bortoli family is now one of our largest wine exporters, yet the dynasty owes its start in Australia to an illiterate peasant farmer. Vittorio De Bortoli fled the devastation of the Great War and came to Griffith in rural New South Wales searching for land to till. He was soon followed by his childhood sweetheart, the enterprising Guiseppina. She devised a way of making dry table wine for the family and other migrant Italians, at the same time bringing to Australia a little of the lifestyle they had left behind. The De Bortoli farm soon became the centre of a thriving immigrant community - and as more arrived, the family enterprise expanded. As the Italian influence spread, so did the ambitions of Vittorio's son, Deen. Ignoring his father's pleas for caution, Deen would turn De Bortolis into one of Australia's major bulk wine producers, leading the charge into cask wine. The third generation has proved equally innovative - and equally combative. Darren, Deen's eldest, would fight his father for the right to take the family into premium wine production. As the family's wine and business have grown increasingly sophisticated, the De Bortolis have become high profile national and international players. But their success has come at a cost to local loyalties, straining community ties that go back generations. With each vintage, tensions mount. Economic realities have seen the family cut back on the grapes it buys, and the price it is prepared to pay. But in a small town like Griffith, this has meant growing antagonism towards the winery and, as vintage gets underway, the family's decisions are the focus of intense scrutiny. This half-hour programme joins the De Bortoli family as it makes hard-nosed business choices around the lunch table, and struggles with what of its heritage it will have to leave behind.